January 2008

Megan contemplates camelThis post has been building up for a while – all sorts of thoughts, reflections, and good stories piling on top of one another and gaining coherence over the last 12 days in Morocco. Dave and I have just completed what seems to be the “tour” of Morocco: the circle from Casablanca through the cities of Rabat, Meknes, Fez, then up through the mountains to the edge of the Sahara, before heading back to the tourist capital of Marrakesh (via Oarzazate, the “Hollywood” of Morocco), and finally to the seaport of Essouira, made famous by Jimmy Hendrix (among others), although we have been told not to believe the local tour guides when they tell us that he wrote Castles of Sand here.


Arriving at Essouira, for us, brought a certain sigh of relief. We feel that Morocco has done us justice, so to speak, and we can now embark on our own journey. Ill-prepared as we were for Morocco – our original guidebook, borrowed from my Aunt Babs, did not offer any hotels, and our main guidebook was only obtained from Juan on the eve of our departure from Spain – we jumped in with a sheepish sense of duty and disorientation. Luckily, we have been met by a country very ready and willing to accommodate us, host us, haggle us, and charm us.


So, the news: I am still a vegan (except for a couple of french fries that I have my doubts about). Dave is still a vegetarian (except for his one foray into “tagine legumes,” which most definitely had some animal fat boiling at the bottom). We are both taking daily vitamins and eating lots of bread and avocado. We have begun our malaria inoculations, last Thursday, in fact, the morning of our camel trek and overnight in the desert – and we are proud to say that week one (for me) and week two (for Dave) have not produced any thrilling dreams, ahem, hallucinations to speak of. We have pictures enough to prove that we actually did ride camels, make Berber pizza over a fire, and sleep under the full moon on the edge of the Sahara. We will see what next week (and the 33 after) may bring.


The reflections: Following the “tour” has its positives and negatives, as one might expect. We are welcomed into each town by many hospitable folks who are eager to welcome us in many different languages, and offer us lodgings designed to meet our every need. This makes us very suspicious in our wanderings of any one who might inquire what our nationality may be. An interesting side note: we have never, not once, had the first guess be American, which means we are either hiding our heritage well or folks fear to insult us with that as a first guess.


Two other asides on the American note: most people do not seem to understand “Etats-Unis” until I clarify, America. However, most people do know Chicago right off the bat. We have not encountered much political discussion, although Dave often says, “Chicago, where Barack Obama is from.” My first overtly political interaction came last night, when leaving an Internet café in Essouira. The young man who ran the place guessed that I was English and when I corrected him, he asked me, “How about George Bush?” I probably rolled my eyes and got out half a sentence before he continued, “I like George Bush. You know why? He makes war and everything; he does what is good for America.” Astonished, I tried to get out of this conversation, but could not do so before he added that the person he does not like is “Condo,” i.e. Condaleeza Rice. I chose not to explore whether this has to do with gender or race, and his gestures were open for interpretation.


Following the tour makes life easy, as almost everyone along it speaks three or four of the following languages: Arabic, French, Berber, English, Spanish, Italian, and a smattering of Japanese (and probably others). There are also amenities a-plenty, everything that we could want along the way.


Lastly, following the tour makes the country feel small, somehow, as we overlap with other travelers and guides and the places that they promote. On the bus from Midelt, in the Atlas Mountains, to Rissani, en route to the desert, we had the good fortune to meet a pair of Japanese friends, Yoko and Yuji, headed in the same direction. We got along well and decided to aim for the same spot in the desert. We also met a particularly persistent guide, who jumped onto the bus at the second to last stop and began to encourage us to go to his desert auberge, Le Petite Prince. I was a little skeptical of this guide right from the get-go, as we had already received a card for the place from the owner of our last hotel, and subsequently been forcefully pushed to the same spot by another “friend” in the mountains.


The third Petite Prince pusher began working on us on the bus, staying on for the last 30 minutes of the bus ride, despite our repeated explanations that we had a reservation elsewhere. He dismounted the bus in Rissani with us, stuck around the bus station for 10 minutes while we purposely dawdled, and then followed us as we walked towards town, trying to ignore his many forms of persuasion. Still unable to shake him, we stopped into a café for a coffee and to wait for a taxi to come take us to the auberge of our choice. He stayed in the café at a nearby table for a full 40 minutes. When our taxi arrived, we were probably as happy to finally be rid of him, as we were to be on the last stretch of our journey to the desert.


Yoko and Yuji atop a DuneTwo days in the desert did us a world of good, despite being a full-blown tourist indulgence, complete with lessons in the Berber language, late night drumming and dancing, and the famous camel trek. Dave and I left a day before our Japanese friends, and made our way by thumb and grand taxi to the town, Erfoud, where we were to catch to seven-hour bus to Oarzazate.


We arrived a couple of hours early and sat down at a café by the bus stop to catch up on postcard writing. Lo and behold, no sooner did we sit down than were we saluted by the same young man who had haggled us for so many hours two days before. I thought, “Ah, a chance for reconciliation, now that the sale is off,” and I made small talk with him for about 20 minutes, during part of which I attempted to explain that Americans (and probably others) prefer the “soft sale” to the “hard sale.” Apparently, my pointer was lost on him or irrelevant, as he spent the next hours leading up to our departure attempting to lead us to his favorite souvenir shops in town. From all of this we learned that, in his own words, “Dave is not as nice as his girlfriend.”


Luckily, we have had two delightful reencounters to push that far into the past. Two days after the desert, Dave and I were settled in a lovely hotel in the old medina of Marrakesh, with a terrace for sunny breakfasts, views to the nearby minaret, and sunset watching. On our second day, Dave came back early from a day of sightseeing to find our Japanese friend Yoko on the doorstep of our hotel. She and Yuji had decided to take different paths for a few days, and we were lucky to spend an evening sunset and morning coffee together, solidifying the friendship.


The following day, yesterday, Dave and I headed on to Essouira, a three-hour bus-ride to coast. We again found a marvelous hotel in the old medina with a terrace overlooking the sea. I settled into the “chore” of uploading all of our photos, while Dave headed out to do laundry. Within moments of leaving the hotel, Dave ran into Yuji, our other Japanese friend, who had just arrived in town. Yuji ended up in our same hotel and we, again, shared a beautiful evening sunset, dinner, and morning stroll around the fishing port and beach. The end result was that, at 11 this morning, Dave sat alternately watching a youth soccer game on the beach and the waves, while Yuji helped me remember/practice writing Kanji in the sand.


Now, we are a couple of hours south along the coast, in a small town of Tagazout. I am writing from the comfort of the beachside apartment that is ours for the night for the negotiated price of about $20, listening to our landlady’s TV upstairs and the waves crashing outside. Dave has struck up a friendship with a young man who runs a souvenir shop down the beach, who is taking him to a local party. Having seen enough glimpses of male-only nightlife in Morocco, and with so much for the blog that I am about to burst, I stay behind. I want to write a bit about gender in Morocco, and a few other anecdotes, but perhaps it will have to wait till later. As Yuji said to us last night, “Good night, and good luck.”


Garden in FezSo, I hear the complaints…where the heck are the photos? The same thing has been going through my head for the last week. All my glimpses of Spain were meant to be illustrated, but I let the traveler’s worst threat get the best of me: technical barriers of quick moving in strange places. Dave and I apologize, and humbly beg all not to give up on us. We are committed to the VISUAL! (As our friend and host in Madrid, Juan commented to me last week, “Your boyfriend is Japanese.”) David has been repaying hospitality across Europe with the visual, leading to  a computer crash at Cindy’s and over a thousand Spain photos left on Juan’s hard drive.  (NB: these blessings too can be yours, should your home lie in our path to Cameroon!)Since coming to Morocco, I fear we have gotten even worse. I’ve taken perhaps a quarter as many photos as Dave, but then, hey, I’ve got about a quarter as many memory cards and camera batteries. Once we filter his – including so many ridiculous pictures of me with my eyes half shut under my head scarf or translating for him from our Spanish language Moroccan guidebook (long story) or instructing him (with a typical Megan instructive face) in French from our “Easy French for Travelers” – we may be even.

So, right now, I amend the previous post with a few real glimpses of Spain, and leave you all to a visual tour of our first 7 days in Morocco. On the map, the route goes: Casablanca (not as romantic as the movies), Rabat (so much more than an administrative capital), Meknes (confusing as heck Medina but good jumping off point), Mulay Idriss (our first hired guide) and Volubilis (mmm, Roman ruins!), and Fez (phew!). I write currently from the Middle Atlas, a town called Midelt to be specific, where we have just been offered the “Berber hospitality” (two cups of mint tea, “the Moroccan whisky” and a 60 Dirham room). Tomorrow, we continue the trek down to Rissani and Merzouga, for a genuINE camel trek into the desert. That means, yes, more photos. Blessings!

Walk with Cathy in Burgo de OsmaIt is a blessing to speak the language of the country you are in. Such was my relief when we stepped off our Easy Jet flight in the Barcelona airport one week ago. When we began to head in the wrong direction for the baggage claim, I could without thinking or gesturing too wildly or sheepishly speaking English, ask for directions. True, I may have offended a Catalan, but speaking a common second language is still an improvement – and probably the best I can hope for in coming months.

Plaza George OrwellPlaza George OrwellBarcelona was also blessedly balmy after Berlin, and Dave and I happily shed our coats (and backpacks) at the hostel before heading out in the Barri Gotic. It wasn’t quite sunny or quite Plaza George Orwellwarm, but it felt like spring to us and we practically skipped through the streets, snapping pictures of laundry hanging out to dry, and plants drooping off of balconies, until we came to Port Vella, the old port.  There, we devoted our first afternoon to the Museum of Catalonian History, which like the Museum of German History the afternoon before, was thorough from prehistory to recent times, overwhelming, and at times, a touch one-sided in favor of the nation writing its own history.

For example, any visitor to the Catalonian History Museum could leave believing that Catalonia has been mostly independent for most of its history, with a few tragic breaks, such as the centuries following the War of Spanish Succession, and again after the Spanish Civil War. Ask a Spaniard from another region and they will most likely explain that Catalonia has never been independent, but has rather been under the rule of some empire, kingdom, or nation-state since forever. The same outsider perspective will explain that Catalan has only been a written language for about the last century.

Nevertheless, what impresses me is the region’s ability to forge an independent identity and a certain perspective on Spanish history, aided by bilingual signs and monuments to Catalan heroes all around the city. But it seems simultaneously to me that the mobility of people (whether tourists such as me or young Spaniards from other regions) will always give favor to a lingua franca – such as the ubiquitous English in Germany and northern Europe.

Aside from our required and rewarding tour of Gaudi’s architecture, which occupied the better part of a day, the highlight of Barcelona for me was a two hour tour we were given by Ana, the Spanish friend of our friend Ian from Seattle, and her boyfriend Urial, who showed us some sights off the beaten path. We wandered past the smallest shop in Barcelona (literally, a medieval window front measuring about 3 by 6 feet, sadly no longer in use) and down into a small square with a church on one side and a three-on-three futbol game in the center. Ana and Urial showed us the wall of the church, pitted from gunfire of nearly 70 years ago, when Franco’s army executed defeated Catalan republicanos. Both Ana and Urial also had stories to share of their own grandfathers’ experiences during the civil war.

From Barcelona, we took a train to Zaragoza, cutting up through the Aragon region that I know mostly as a Civil War battlefield from having read the first chapters of Homage to Catalonia by George Orwell. There were few signs from a distance of such violence on the misty hillsides. From Zaragoza, we took a bus up into Soria, arriving in the small town of Burgo de Osma just in time for Spanish lunch at nearly 4 PM (those who know me and my eating habits will know that I am well-suited for the Spanish meal schedule).

We were given a warm welcome indeed in Burgo de Osma, where the aunt of Dave’s best friend from childhood has lived with her Spanish husband and children for the last several decades. One of her sons, an architect named Sevi, who we were fortunate to meet, had designed a home for his parents in the hills outside the town. The home acts as a picture frame, so that on all sides windows look out to frame the hills and farmland. It was snowing as we arrived, drove up the long dirt road, and while we looked out the windows over lunch. But, by the time that we cleared up from lunch and went out for a 4km walk with the 5 dogs, the snow had stopped, the sky had cleared and chilled, and we watched a beautiful dusk fall over the landscape.

Time flies by in Spain, most likely because of the language, making conversations easy, the hospitality and good company of so many. From Burgo de Osma, we continued on to Madrid, where we met Cindy (our German host), who could not bear to say goodbye in Berlin. The three of us stayed with our friend and former Spanish teacher, Juan, and his family near to the Casa del Campo, southwest of central Madrid. Four days in good company flew by, until suddenly, we were bidding adios, packing our bags, and boarding the flight to Casablanca.

I feel in many ways ill-prepared for Morocco, a land where I can at best stumble through the most basic of conversations in a mutual third language (French), but we have arrived. The rest of the journey spreads out before us, with many a challenge and beaucoup de opportunities – yesterday Casablanca, today Rabat, tomorrow Fez, then who knows?

Berlin CathedralIt’s our last day in Germany, and I think that I can now safely pronounce Dave and myself the laziest tourists in Berlin. We’ve been here for eleven days and we have seen a record low of 4 museums, not counting the outdoor Eastside Gallery, which I did manage to see twice. Not that I have regrets. For me, this has been the perfect stay: it has been a vacation in the truest sense of the word, with long nights of sleep, lazy mornings, and time to bake more than a few batches of bread. Most tourism (if we should call it that) has been social rather than sightseeing.

Through our hosts (who have been most patient with Dave’s and my ubiquitous presence in the apartment), we have met and gotten to know better a wide collection of volk. For example, last week, we dined with a marvelous Spanish couple (from the city of Zaragoza, where we will pass through on this coming Friday) who before moving to Berlin, had lived for three years in Chicago. Among other topics, Sylvia and Juan (who happen to have the same names as the lead dog couple in the foreign language learning video Muzzy) regaled Cindy and me with uproarious if not a little sad tales of European teachers lost in the Chicago Public Schools. Culture clash seems a mild word for the frontier between their pedagogical approach and the middle schools of Hyde Park.

We have, however, managed to leave and return to Berlin. This last weekend, we took the train to Leipzig, apparently one of the most East German of (former) East German cities. Leipzig is also the former home of our dear hostess Cindy and the current home of many German friends who have visited us in Chicago, including Daniel, Antje, Lilli, and Mathias. Luckily for us, all these Leipzigians live under one roof and that roof has a guest room, so we had a most cozy homecoming.

The Giro Coop was a treat to visit. It was started in 2000 by a group of social activists – including Antje and another woman who still live there. The building dates to 1905, very Prussian in style, and was previously made up of three separate apartments to the floor. In Cindy’s days in the coop, and until recently, each room was heated separately with coal scuttled up from the basement. This is probably more romantic to my imagination than in it is in lived reality. I hear it used to be very cold and nighttime trips to the bathroom were a dreaded experience.David in the belly of the beast…or vice versa? However, the 14 inhabitants have been hard at work with renovations and the place gleams of home improvement – freshly tiled bathrooms, new built-in kitchen cabinets, etc. Most impressive was the new heating system in the basement, which uses wood pellets for fuel (apparently ordered in 10-ton batches), which we were able to inspect ever so closely. See right.

The comforts of the coop and afternoon rain did not stop us from exploring the DIY (do-it-yourself) bests of Leipzig, from the Conne Island dance club and café to a series industrial spaces turned art galleries. My favorite site in the neighborhood was the video store down the block known for its collection of meerschweinchien (guinea pigs).

Now, for our final afternoon, Dave and I will tackle the German History Museum – see if we can handle so much official tourism. Next stop, Barcelona. Auf wiedersehen.

Tuesday morning in Berlin and the snow is falling. Our good host, Mike, while chopping potatoes for a hearty noontime breakfast, asks, “What if we get a good snow cover that lasts for the next couple of months? Then, in early spring, when it melts, we’ll have to face all the litter from New Year’s Eve.” If the streets right now look anything like they did at 4:00 am when we wandered home, that would indeed be a sight: waterlogged firework wrappers and damp clumps of orange gunpowder, which would most likely stain the sidewalks and cobblestones.

I have never seen so many fireworks as New Year’s Eve in Berlin last night. Berlin offers a 3-day respite from a year-round fireworks ban, so that since the second day of our stay, the sounds of gunfire have colored the landscape, and we have to pause our walks around the city to avoid bottle rockets aimed innocently at our heads.

For the midnight moment, we stood on the balcony of a penthouse apartment in Prenzlauerberg (which Cindy and Mike refer to as Pramlauerberg for its new yuppie family approach to life). Across the city, the haze of fog and smoke obscured the Fernsehturm (television tower) in Alexanderplatz, which we had glimpsed earlier in the evening. But, all around, gunfire-like shots and flashes of light, people standing on roofs and surrounding balconies and in clumps on the street, made us feel that we were in the middle of it all. I hoisted myself up on the ledge for a moment of gleeful vertigo (apparently giving Mike a near panic attack, which I am still trying to make amends for).

Thousands of miles from home, but we still seem surrounded by enough particles of Chicago. Our New Years was spent with Cindy and Mike (former Chicagoans moved to Berlin), Thomas (former Chicagoan gone San Francisco), Daniel, Dirk, and Martina (all Germans who have visited Chicago for lengthy stays). It also helps the home-like feeling that practically every German we have so far encountered (right down to the Turkish shopkeepers of Neukolln) speaks enough English to help Dave and I get around barely using our five German phrases.

Eastside Gallery BerlinHighlights of the stay so far (New Years’ already included) have been our walk along the Eastside Gallery (a graffiti-covered chunk of the Berlin Wall maintained along the bank of the River Spree in old East Berlin), a Chicago-style dinner complete with a long game of “fictionary” at the apartment of Mike and Cindy two nights ago, and some gleeful dancing later last night at a benefit for undocumented immigrants in Berlin thrown by some of Cindy’s activist friends.

Coming up this week: dinner with Cindy’s Cameroonian friend (who we will no doubt pester with too many questions), explorations of the city’s many museums (which we have so far been too relaxed to attack with gusto and which are closed today), and a trip to the long-fabled Leipzig. Happy 2008 and best wishes to all!

Many Little People

“Many little people who do many little things in many little places can change the face of the world.” (Translation from the German above)